Sculpting for Fair, Medium and Deep tones

Frances – Fair Skin

The key products and most popular product used to contour the hollows of the face for fair skin is cream pigment in hollow, I used a blush up brush to apply it and did it under the foundation application. I used skinbase lift in white light mixed with light 1 to highlight the high planes of the face eg: under the eye, cheek bone and done the centre of the face.

I buffed skinbase in her shade all over the top, by doing this is creates a soft glow of contouring and highlighting and adds subtle diffention to the face.

To add extra depth and brightness I added scultping duo over the contour and highlight.

The key things to remember with fair skin is to use ashy toned contouring products as anything to warm and golden will look very artifical.



Charlotte – Fair Skin

Contouring and highlighting your face is the ultimate way of creating a three dimensional finish. Structured Skin is the in thing and accentuates your features, gives definition and can create the desired illusion you’re after.


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Contouring works best by being teamed up with highlighting the face to accentuate the contour.

You want to create artificial shadows which play tricks on the eye, then you should add highlights above these contours to emphasise these hollows.

To highlight use Illamasqua Skinbase 01 or Skinbase Lift White Light buffed into the foundation using an Illamasqua Highlighter Brush for a perfectly polished finish.

When choosing your contour shade always opt for matte, and slightly muted tones. It is more believable than using shimmery bronzers to contour the hollows of the face. Those with light skins should avoid grey tones. Use deep creams or taupes, and avoid grey pigments which can make you look ashy.  You can use a Foundation shade that is a few shades darker than your natural skin tone or our cream concealers / Pigments  that blend easily into the foundation. Try Cream Pigment in Hollow for a natural contour shade. Contour under the cheekbones from the hairline and then blend down and out towards the mouth.

Balance the above contour by highlighting across the tops cheekbones up into the temples and polish over the apples of the cheeks.

To add luminosity to the skin try Illamasqua Gleam in Aurora or Pure Pigment in Furore for highly illuminated skin. Can also  be used across collar bones and shoulders.

For perfect highlighted and contoured skin try our new sculpting duo perfect for quick on the go application.



Medium skin – Leena
I am a skinbase 13, I class myself in the medium zone

For me you cant beat cream textured products to highlight and contour, I am a huge fan of our Skinbase lift concealers,

I apply hydraveil to give me a hydrated smooth base,

The I use skinbase lift in medium 1 and white light to softly highlight, areas like- down my nose, filtrum, top of cheekbones and etc… I apply this with my smoothing brush, which gives your precision but also softness when smoothed, I blend any outlined edges

Apply my foundation in sb 13 just a light coverage on top, softly stipple over the highlighted area you don’t want to over buff here.

The I use skinbase lift in deep 2 with the smoothing brush to literally draw on my contour for areas such as under cheeks bones, temples, side of nose, jawline and  etc… and blend out softly with the highlighter brush

I set everything with 010 translucent powder and use glint and burnish bronzer to deepen the areas where I have contoured, that’s my fav way to do it

These colours are great for olive, tanned and warmer Asian skin tones


Deep Skin – Zoe


I love to use powder foundation in 325 on a deeper skin tones, the red tones help to warm up the skin too, using a cream underneath with deepen the contour even more for a darker skin tone, try using chestnut skinbase mixer or skin base 18.

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Govinder Rayt

Govinder Rayt

Writer and expert